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Post Ride Write Up
This page is dedicated to all the Beemers and Friends, without you the ride is not the same
Courage is not the absence of fear, but rather the judgement that something else is more important than fear
The brave may not live forever, but the cautious do not live at all.
Please send your ride stories to be included along with the five below as well as pics.
I also appreciate comments enuf to reproduce it at the end of the page.
Quotable Quotes (something to read incase your at the wrong site)
* Good judgement comes from bad experience, and most of that comes from bad judgement.
* Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
* Sex is like air. It's not important unless you aren't getting any.
Some of the rides
* Hell's Ride Hell's Gate NP
* Ukambani Ride - Nbi-Kibwezi-Kitui-Machakos
* Kajiado Ride Old Rally Route
* A Motorcycle Journey to the Cradle Of Mankind
* Usambara Mountains - Tanzania
* Post Ride Comments (Testimonials)
HELL’ s RIDE
What an extraordinary ride……. !!!!!!!!!!
Departure was at 07:30 with Kevin one of our new members and Axel who joined us later.
Arrival at the Elsa gate (Park HQs) was at 09;00 to a warm reception with the asst Warden who promptly informed us we were to be the first motorbikes he'd seen ride into the Hell’s Gate National Park.
First stop was the Obsidian Caves with it’s surreal landscape. We then weaved our way through the grass covered road onto the Buffalo circuit. At the top is the Kaparitan viewpoint which has a panoramic view of the entire region and is well worth a visit This is a 4WD only circuit, but perfect for our bikes.. The climb was the “easy” part, the decent however required some “care” and I was soon sweating off the Tusker from the previous nights’ BBQ. It reminded me of the rocky decent to Ewaso Kedong, watch the ruts and larger rocks, as it’s said, the more you ride the better it gets.
Half an hour later we joined the main park road and after passing the Central tower stopped at the Rangers Post for a quick lunch break at 11.50. The next destination was the less visited western sector which is, greener and peaceful. Here you find Hobley’s Volcano and Hell’s kitchen. The 14 kms to Hell’s Kitchen is a thrilling ride with a mix of small rock, rocky climbs and decent again 4 WD is recommended, but the guide book should read GS recommended, you’ll be glad to hit the tarmac after fishtailing a few times.
We left HGNP through the Ol Karia gate at 13:45 directly onto the Moi South Rd and arrived back in Nairobi at 15:15 after one evocative ride.
Probably the best way to enjoy this park.
it’s all a sensory thing; if your driving a car you’re watching a film; if your riding a bike your in it,
so buffalo circuit is ……….
Animals we “met” Burchell’s Zebra, Grants Gazelle, Impala, Warthog, Maasai Giraffe, Eland, and of course opportunistic Olive baboons at the Rangers Post (quite a number of donkeys by the way) no Buffalo this time but I did on a previous visit.
UKAMBANI RIDE
MAY 12/13 2007 KIBWEZI-KITUI RIDE
Firstly sincere thanks to the 5 participants who took part.
Day 1 -This 513 km early departure ride took the enthusiastic group down through cold morning fog between Nairobi and Sultan Hamud. After the hectic Mlolongo Toll station - Athi River – Machakos Junction road, traffic reduced and other than the diversion from Makutano to Konza was smooth sailing till Kibwezi with a coffee break at Kiboko. The turn off to Umani just past Kibwezi was well marked as was the 12.5 km all weather sandy route to the camp. The twisty and narrow road at times seemed like a footpath and is littered with elephant dung. We arrived at the camp at 12 noon to find we had the camp all to ourselves and the attention of the dozen or so staff.
The Umani Springs Camp, which has been around for nearly 3 decades is in the Kibwezi forest reserve. Umani in the kamba language means “the place of knowledge”, or “the place that everyone knows”.
After lunch we (sidestepped the disclaimer forms) spent the afternoon on a 2 hour walk through the unique ground water forest. Our walk ended at Umani fresh water springs, welling up through lava rock from underground water coming off the Chyulu Hills. Much like the mzima springs in Tsavo West and supply drinking water for households in all the surrounding towns. Absence of large mammals (which was hard to ignore esp. hippos) which are plentiful in mzima springs –Tsavo West, is mainly due to human activity. In the evening we saw nocturnal animals baited by the camp staff from the bar lounge bush baby, genet and mongoose.
Day 2 - Breakfast was early and after packing we refueled at Kibwezi leaving at 10 am for the 144 kms stretch to Kitui through the Yatta Plateau on an all weather sandy road.
The road is undulating with some corrugation but little traffic on a Sunday, the condition of the road however suggests it carries more traffic on regular days since there is little deep or loose sand. Stops at the Athi River bridge, Ikutha, Mutomo and Wikililye meant arriving in Kitui at 1:30 pm. Average speed 60 km/h.
Light refreshments were at Riverside Hotel in Kitui before we set off at 2 pm for the tar road through Machakos and on to the Mombasa Road by 4 pm.
Most riders were back at home at 5 pm. Light drizzle, cool weather all day, both days, gave a super and memorable ride, thanks guys
Hope to see more riders on the next Breakfast Run/Ride Out!!!
KAJIADO RIDE
Distance 170 kms approx (130 kms off road)
Thanks to Kevin for organizing this well attended ride to one of the best off-road rides I’ve been on.
A total 5 bikes came on this day outing. After arriving at what has become a designated meeting point for rides to this part of Kenya, Karen BP, we set off at 9 am for corner baridi , Olepolos and down the steep tarmac drop after olepolos club towards Lake Magadi. After about 3 kms we took a left turn off towards Kajiado, at a junction we now refer to as Icross or Ol Orian on the map. This regular safari rally route with little traffic started off with a trecherous small rock filled drop off into the valley below. Along the route we encountered different surfaces from loose sand, small stones and red soil. After the rail crossing at Elangata Wuas (this is the rail line to Lake Magadi) the road is graded and smoother.
We stopped for lunch at one of the few shaded trees at “Sinya Drift” for lunch. After lunch we rode 12 kms on to the Namanga-Kajiado rd and to Kajiado Town. We then took the road through the town onto Oloiyiangalani area and a choking dust road that climbed up towards a big communication mast on top of Embetera hill 2022 m.a.s.l . At the top toward the Endonyo Narok range and Endoinyo Narok Hill (2026 m a.s.l) we stumbled onto a surreal landscape with moss covered rock outcrops.
Winds in this area are said to be most ferocious and unbearable and hence complete lack of inhabitants. This road meanders onto settlements that progressively increase until Corner Baridi. Our ride ended at 3 pm at Olenana meating point.
Hope to see more riders on the next Breakfast Run/Ride Out!!!
DREAMING OF MARICH PASS (A Journey To the Cradle Of Mankind)
The idea for a motorcycle ride to Lake Turkana began while on a camping trip to Lake Baringo in July. A most tantalizing story about 2 bikers who rode from Lake Baringo to Lodwar through Nginyang and Marich pass set us off on a bout of serious day dreaming. If you know this terrain, it is wild and most forbidding to say the least, we dared not attempt this route but it it didn’t stop us dreaming. Marich Pass seemed like a pass to the frontier of a great adventure and great trip.
We set a date at the earliest opportunity and began to work out the plan. Our effort to establish the condition of the road did not yield much only that it was supposedly better on the west side of the Lake than on the other side to Marsabit . So true that “This is one half of Kenya which the other half knows nothing and seems to care even less”. A bit of luck got us advanced bookings for the Fishing lodge which helped knowing after a long ride we had a nice place to stay.
Day 1 Fog and Diversion
Finally departure day arrives and we were off by 9:30 am headed to Nakuru and into the worst fog I have ever ridden in from Kikuyu to the Maai Mahiu turn off, what would life be for bikers without the lower Maai Mahiu Rd. The diversion from Gilgil was however the baddest part of the short ride to Nakuru. The road from the left turn before E Ravine through Tenges to Kabarnet was unusually busy even for a Saturday. We rode on through the Kerio Vally stopping for pics on our way up to Iten which we sped by. We also bypassed Eldoret at 3:30 pm only stopping to refuel at Moi’s Bridge 20 kms before Kitale. My new one day record is now 458 kms. We filled up on feul before bed and extra jerrican for the smaller Yamaha tank.
Day 2 The Adventure begins-Destination Kalekol
A restless night ended at 5 am on our much anticipated long ride day to Lodwar and Kalekol, we hit the road at 5:25 am. The A1 highway to Lodwar bypasses Kapenguria by 2-3 kms and then scales a neck of the Cheranganis before plunging along their northern slopes following a tributary of the Turkwel and slipping through the defiles of the Marich Pass and down on to the South Turkana plains (It has now become noticeably hotter). We hardly noticed this first 100 kms past Kapenguria on to Ortum or the deteriorating tar road. Marich Pass we learnt marks the end of West Pokot territory and more importantly Guys the start of the adventure.
The Road
Ahead there’s 250 kms of really bad zero road, that was asphalt once a long long time ago. You now have a wider choice of 3 varying surfaces, riding on the side of the “road”, the middle bit with it’s beat up tar islands measuring a few feet or inches in some places, or the oncoming side. You want to stay on the tar but there’s horrid potholes that will bottom your shock and shred your tyres, so back to the side and vice versa. The sides are risky because of deep sand and y’all know what that can do. Basically for 60 kms at a time we rode as fast as possible and kept our eyes on the road scanning every sq metre of it. Bad roads are worse than off road, definetly true.
The first Town in Southern Turkana is Kainuk and if your from West Pokot community (WP) this is where you don’t want to be. At a town after about 50 kms from Kainuk we stopped for a break and were quickly surrounded by curious and inquisitive eyes which gave us little chance to rest. Next stop was Lokichar 37 kms behind the hills a major town on the “highway” that has safcom and cel network, far less of a crowd so we were able to rest and noted the Kakuma Express bus passed by. Good news is the better road starts 15 kms away,
One more stop at Locheremoit to refuel the smaller tank of the Yamaha. Couldn’t help noticing the 3 guys with Chinese made AK47 under their shukas and ill fitting jungle cap wish I could take a pic, maybe next time
The road improves but more drifts mean caution since sand washed onto the concrete can cause havoc on the bike, car tracks reduce the sand so avoid the sand bit in the middle, also some drifts have a steep exit, and one can get quickly airborne if your moving too fast.
Lokichar to Lodwar is 85 kms
Lodwar Kalekol and Ferguson’s Gulf
We arrived in Lodwar at 12:30 with a sense of accomplishment. It wasn’t so bad after all, a one hour stop, well deserved as we were ahead of schedule. So far 303 kms in 5 hours riding so average 55 km/h.
The 55 kms road from Lodwar to Kalkol is a good tar road which reminded us of the ride to Lake Magadi. The Lake Turkana Fishing Lodge Manager Wycliffe sent a boat to pick us and after parking our bikes under an acacia tree, we were off to the lodge which is on a sand bank in Ferguson’s Gulf. The 30 min boat ride to the lodge gave us a good introduction to the Lake, a reward for a hard days ride. We were welcomed with cold drinks on the lodge terrace an impromptu curio shop was set up which started off quite civilized and organized but by late evening we learned quickly that the Turkana are resolute and stubborn bargainers.
On offer are interesting fossil fish, hippo bones among other stuff you may not get anywhere else
Tea and Dinner had fish as had breakfast and lunch the day after
The generator goes on at 7 pm until 9:30 pm.
Tomorrow we plan to visit the Central island with the world’s largest population of isolated crocs Nile crocs I might add. There are also hippos , snakes and plenty birds. We negotiated the boat trip from Kshs 10, 000 down to Kshs 4,500 not bad.
--Ejomong-- Turkana Greeting
The Turkana occupy every inch of territory from Kapedo, Ortum and marich pass to N Kenya West of Lake Turkana.
They are openly aggressive and display their bellicosity. They are also highly individualistic perhaps because of famines and wars. They are related to the luo and migrated from the south, as pastoralist fishing was a taboo but is a more recent acquired occupation due to severe droughts. Their diet includes dogs, donkey and crocs. Although life seems easy and laid back it is very harsh environment with resulting dependency on donor food. The main activity for communities by the lake is fishing.
Advice from a traveler, read about the locals before undertaking a trip like this. The Turkana have an aversion to pics you must ask before taking pics, they do not pose like the Maasai their cousins in mara and it has nothing to do with money, they feel the camera and pic will take their soul away. They carry a formidable arsenal of hand to hand weapons spears and shields fighting sticks and wooden clubs, razor sharp wrist and finger knives and long thin needles. If that doesn’t scare you, they also pack AK 47 (made in china) we saw a few and of course do not have pictures of .
The Lake
Some info.
Alkaline –High day temps and high evaporation (3 metres per year or 1 cm a day), plus no outlet makes the water alkaline.
And barely drinkable
Tributaries – River Omo (main), Turkwel and Kerio River
Depth – about 100 meters
Length, width and area –280 kms long and 56 kms max and 2500 sq miles
Fish – more than 40 species incl Nile Perch, Tilapia and tiger fish
Reptiles – Numerous snakes saw scaled vipers and night adders, puff adders and cobras and crocs
Birds – Over 350 species resident and migratory
Mammals – Hippos
Day 3 Ferguson Gulf Turkana Village and Night in Lodwar
Morning by the lake slept like a baby can’t remember when I slept so sound.
We awoke to a strong easterly wind that dashed our hope of going to the central Island, boats too small for that strong current.
This lake gusts energetically and occasionally becomes demonic and is highly unpredictable. The lake is responsible for more accidental deaths than others incl Hippos and crocs
So change of plan-We visited the village on the small island where our guide from the lodge introduced us around the village and saw close up a typical Turkana homestead and some of the facilities around there are 2 hand pumps to boreholes that supply drinking water.
The human population on the gulf is 1900 straight from the village elder who came to meet us at the lodge.
After lunch we packed and headed for Lodwar where we spend the night so as to leave at day break and get to Kitale in good time to continue on to Eldoret.
Night at -Nawoitorong Lodge 2kms into right turn just before turkwel river bridge at Lodwar
Day 4 Back to Kenya
5:15 am departure saw us reach Lokichar by 7:10 am and Kainuk by 9:15 am where we had our first puncture to repair, we took our time on this one 2 hours to be precise “the interruptions are the journey”. The return journey somehow seemed shorter but the ride from M Pass to Kapenguria much longer and certainly different and we now saw the deterioration of the tar road. More importantly we were now facing the Cheranganis. One thing you learn from this road is the hills guide you and act as landmarks, without GPS maps seem useless. We arrived in Kitale at 2 pm for lunch before fuelling up and heading for a traffic filled ride to Eldoret where we arrived at 4 pm.
Tomorrow we head back to Nairobi.
Day 5 Back to Nairobi
Early start but more relaxed ride back through
Kapsabet -Nandi Hills – Chemelil – Kericho – Sotik – Bomet – Narok – Suswa – Maai Mahiu – Back to Nairobi at 6:30 pm
520 kms a new one day record
Summary
This 5 day ride was a wonderful adventurous, trouble free and eventful ride. Best done with two to three bikers. No need to camp since rooms are cheap in Kitale or Eldoret. The 303 km ride from Kitale to Lodwar is a bit intimidating at first but worth every bit. You can only stay at the L Turkana fishing Lodge as there is really nowhere else to stay to appreciate the lake fully. The local community would be delighted to host you as they did us. You have, we now know, the fastest means by road, your bike.
Next ride to the southern shores of lake Turkana via Maralal to the Samburu and El molo tribes
Ps Get a copy of Mo Amin’s “Cradle Of Mankind” incredible pics.
USAMBARA MOUNTAINS TZ
USAMBARA TRIP
Hello Joel,
I copy this message to the awesome four only, who have participated in the outing through the Usambara mountains in order not swamp everybody’s mail boxes. Indeed, ours was a great run with a fair share of relax, foolishness, adventure, perseverance and sheer old-fashioned good luck. Find some photos attached.
Cheers, Alexander
Dear Joel,
Thanks for the administrative and other duties you have volunteered to take over. I am very busy these days but managed a little 4 day adventurous tour with Ivy, Alexander and Gerald to the coast (Kilifi), Lunga Lunga, and proper off-road in Usambara in Tz, beautiful scenery, best weather. Worth repeating with at least one extra day to enjoy the mountains even more.Our Trip was 1666 km in total, rough raod and Usambara its self was over 250. The BMWs did well, even though Ivy had the hardest job piloting her 80 GS in difficult terrain. But she mastered it well and gained valuable experience.
See you and greetings, Klaus.
Greetings, Klaus.
Post Ride Comments
(Testimonials) (recieved by text or email)
1. Text message-Subject: Asante! (Thank You)
Joel,
Asante Sana for putting together a fine ride, with mix of murram and pavement. It was thoroughly enjoyed by Barbara and myself. But I can tell you we slept very well last night!. Happy trails.
Kevin.
Manager - Commercial Operations Unit
United Nations Office At Nairobi
2. Text Message-Subject: Re: Thank You and PICS
Dear all:
Thank you all for a great time. The trip was memorable, I just wish my back was better (or the roads were fixed!). Here are my two favourite photos of the event.
Fanina R. Kodre-Alexander
Head, Internet Unit
UNEP Offices at Nairobi
http://www.unep.org
3. Text message -THANKS Joel for a wonderful trip!
Dear Joel - many thanks! IT was wonderful! Your efforts and work in organizing all this are really HIGHLY appreciated!
Ellik Adler, Ph.D.,
Senior Programme Officer
Regional Seas Programme Coordinator
UNEP - United Nations Environment Programme
Nairobi, Kenya
4. Text Message-Joel,
Thanks again for being such a great guide. It was a wonderful ride and we look forward to do doing something similar again soon.
Ellik Adler, Ph.D.,
Senior Programme Officer
Regional Seas Programme Coordinator
UNEP - United Nations Environment Programme
5. Email-Subject: Re: Kibwezi-Kitui Ride
Joel,
Thank you for your thorough organization for the Kitui run.
The Machakos road seemed very different, narrower and much greener. I
remember an arid landscape.
I am keen to get into the hills around Makueni and explore the area
along the Athi, up stream from the Japanese bridge. Would it be worth
repeating the Kapiti plain road to get there? Or hang a left at
Lukenya and loop through the Mua hills.
One day! I doubt that I will be out and about for a while due to work!
Perhaps see you on the 29th.
Regards Robert
6. Email-Subject: Ripple effect rift valley
Dear co-riders,
Please find attached my two favourite pitcha. Many thanks to our tour guide Joel, all the best to Fanina and your lower back and cheers to the rest of the crowd including the one and only scary Harry.
Alexander
7. Email-Subject: Motorcycle club.
Dear Joel,
Thank you for all your wonderful work and ideas for this club - I am enjoying being a new member. I am really sorry I have not been able to join on a ride yet, and this Sunday one sounds just perfect, but I have family arriving from uk and a full day planned showing them around. Maybe we will see you at the BBQ.
I am sure I will soon be able to join you on a ride.
Keep up the good work.
Much appreciation to you.
Alex
8. Text message-on +254 720123456
Hi Joel,
Wet in Naivasha, home and dry in Kileleshwa.Thanks Joel and everybody on tour. It was a good 720 km long way round.
Alexander
9. Email -Re: Mwingi - Kitui - Kibwezi Ride
Joel, thats outstanding, you doing a great job, am
still in switzerland...coming back this end of week
for an enduro at Gilgil.... cheers, Gilbert Barthe
10 Text message -Gary Farrant
Safari very jema.........look forward to some more. Thanks for your company too. gari gari ya mosi (gary)
11. Email- Re: Lake Turkana Ride
OH BOY - Kudo's to you both!! Well done on what appears to have been an exciting and not too challenging ride to Turkana! I sure hope some of us ill trained riders can also participate in these adventures?
Good on you both and thanks for sharing those pic's and issues and info with us!
All the best
Ivy
12 Email-Re: Lake Turkana Ride
Hey great ride, story, and photos guys!!
Makes me feel jealous and lazy...............
Best
TT
13 Email- Re: Lake Turkana Ride
congratulation to both of you, welcome to the club of
the few ones... You did that stuff in an outstanding
way, thanks for the report, great to read.... will
make many jealous, including me....
Gilbert, still in Switzerland for 3 more days....
14 Email- Hello Alastair,
I have forwarded you the lastest trip's planned by our very well organsied and exciting team organiser, Joel. I will be going this Sunday for that ride, so think about it and join us if you can.
Regards
Ivy
15 Email-Re: Lake Turkana Ride -
Dear Joel,
Wow! GREAT... How nice! Thanks for all! Indeed and a beautiful experience!
Best -
Ellik
16 Email-RE: Lake Turkana Ride
Thanks for a fantastic write-up guys! I envy your trip soooo much....
Julie
17 RE: Rider Training Clinic
Dear Joel,
Many many thanks!
Just to let you know that i really appreciate all the hard effort you put into keeping the motorcyclist together.
Many thanks again,
Kartik Master
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Tours and Travel Planning
